A frequently asked question is what types of hair can be finger-waved successfully. Some hairdressers say that all kinds may be so treated—straight, naturally curly, and permanently waved; in fact, any kind except very coarse, thick hair. It has been the author’s experience, however, that fairly straight hair must be slightly inclined to curl; unless there is a slight wave or inclination of a natural wave, however good the following setting or finger-wave may be, it is not possible for the wave to stay in the hair for more than a day or so. Although not a very common practice, occasionally a client with this type of hair will ask for a finger-wave, and in these instances it is advisable to try and persuade her to indulge in a permanent wave. However, should the hairdresser happen to come across this type of hair during his regular work, the use of combs is recommended, by means of which quite a pleasant result can be obtained; but in no circumstances should combs be used upon permanently waved hair, as the hardness of the waves obtained through inserting combs will ruin the nicest of hairstyles, and the work will thus become considerably devalued.
A very important point, one to which too little attention is paid, is the ends; the side-pieces in particular, which are usually left in a clubbed condition, and can, therefore, never be finished gracefully and neatly. The ends, or side-pieces—in fact, the hair all over the head—should be carefully thinned or tapered. It will then be found that the ends will curl much more easily, and at the same time will mould themselves shapely to the head, thus retaining their curl much longer. This is really a very important factor, and finger-waving should never be commenced until the ends are properly tapered or thinned.
Shampooing will help you get the best possible results. Hair that is not clean or is greasey will be much harder to set and take longer to dry. After the shampoo, rub the hair well with a rough towel, so that the hair remains only just damp. This is important, not only from the setting point of view, but also to ensure the client remains comfortable. You will not be popular with your client if there are drips running down their back from over-wet hair. Adjust the parting, and then sprinkle or spray the hair with a suitable setting lotion. Some operators are of the opinion that the lotion helps to set the hair better and more easily. This is entirely erroneous; its main advantage is that the finger waves become dry much more quickly and provides at the same time the advantage of an additional sale.